Science says that your eyebrows are the most important feature on your face.
After all, they do frame every single aspect on it. They can make your eyes appear wider and bigger, your forehead smaller, balance your chin, and even change the shape and size of your nose.
However, brows are complicated, and have been a point of obsession for many women throughout the decades. Many are simply preoccupied with being on top of the constantly evolving trend. My earliest memory was the 90’s skinny brow that graced every cover of Seventeen Magazine scattered across my room. Progression made way to the mid 2000’s natural look then skyrocketed to the 2015 super bold (and in my opinion overdone) Instagram brow. Now there’s word amongst experts that the 90’s skinny brow will come circling back by the end of 2020.
Another aspect of eyebrow obsession lies with those looking to enhance their barely there brows. Aging, hormonal issues, telogen effluvium, thyroid deficiencies, or even overgrooming by way of waxing and plucking are the most common nasty culprits.
Fortunately due to the multitude of grooming products on the market, there are enough groomers out there to match any and all eyebrow concerns. But wait. Before you embark on your eyebrow journey, you must first choose how full to have your brow, what shape, degree of arch, bold and hard or natural and soft, pencil or marker, gel or. . . ya, I’m overwhelmed. How about we just break it down and find the best groomer for your needs?
Pencil
By far the most popular groomer on the market, also deemed the most essential by experts. Perhaps so popular because of its ease of application and foolproof design to draw out your perfect brow, however intensely you choose. It is approachable in defining the brow and allows for the most realistic precision with it’s fine, hair-like strokes. Excellent for filling in gaps and sparseness of the tail.
A negative: can appear waxy
Application
Because our instinct leads us to start heavy handed, don’t begin at the inner corners of the eyebrow. Pencil short, hair-like strokes to mimic the brow hair’s natural direction of growth all the way through to the tail. Go back and forth between the pencil and a spoolie to blend and layer for desired saturation. Finish with upward strokes at the inner brow.
Powder
Right up there with the pencil in terms of popularity. Powder gives a softer look, with less texture and dimension, which is why it is often used as a setter after penciling to extend wear and enhance fullness. It creates a shadow underneath the hair to appear more dense, clinging to the brow to fill in the sparse areas and holes. Very user friendly and is easy to control the amount applied, as well as easy to clean up if you make a goof! Bodes well with those who don’t like the waxy texture of a pencil and is ideal for those with oily skin.
A negative: shortest lasting of the bunch.
Application
First you must select a proper brush. Look for a firm, dense angled brush to provide exact application. Dip then tap, beginning with the arches. Continue to lightly sweep in the direction of hair growth across the brow. Repeat layers until you reach your desired shape and color, then blend with a spoolie.
Marker
Best groomer for those searching for major definition and saturated color. It is the tool behind the crisp, defined line and individual hair strokes of the Instagram brow. The felt tip actually covers bald spots and scar tissue, and provides excellent staying power. It’s long wearing formula is great for those with oily skin, and those who like to work up a sweat. Practice is crucial with a marker as it is tough to control pressure but the fine, felt tip point lends to accuracy. Just takes a little longer.
A negative: requires a steady hand.
Application
Just like the pencil, draw the marker with short strokes and light pressure in the direction of the hair to mimic its effect. Can finish with powder if desired.
Gel
Makeup artists like to refer to gel as the hairspray of the brow world. It firmly holds and defines hairs, making it an excellent choice to groom coarse and unruly brows. Very popular in today’s makeup scene as the provider of the “faux laminated look” with its ability to make the hair appear to actually grow upwards. Tinted gels are available for further filling, but won’t alone fill in the unwanted sparse areas. Gel lacks definition and shaping qualities so best to use as a finishing step.
A negative: not to be used alone.
Application
Remove any excess gel from it’s spoolie. Use a light hand to brush the hair backwards, against it’s natural direction, coating each hair as you go. Then brush in direction of growth to smooth and shape, brushing the front hair of the brows upward.
Pomade
Bolder, more dramatic brows. Its cream-based formula provides concentrated color, making it more tattoo-like over sparse brows. Excellent for extra volume as it moves more than gel, allowing emphasis on texture and definition. It is a more subtle hold, less firm than gels, but also lasts longer than its counterpart.
A negative: its slippery, less friction based formula requires practice
Application
Dip a firm, angled brush into the product, then blot the pomade on the back of hand or tissue. Start at center with short, light strokes then spoolie to soften.
