What is the point of eyeshadow? If you’ve ever asked yourself this question, you’re not alone. Looking at the complex tutorials on the Internet, it seems like a complex and time-consuming process. You have to apply primer, a base color, a crease color, a highlight, a glitter—and on and on and on. And the 30-piece palettes in the beauty aisle don’t help to simplify things either. So, we talked to Joey Maalouf, co-founder of The Glam App, and celebrity makeup artist Lindsay Ebbin to find out what are the classic mistakes you’re probably making. And to start off, take this sage advice: One shadow is enough.
Mistake #1: Skipping the primer step.
Both of our experts agree that using eyeshadow primer is an essential step. “I think the biggest mistake women make is they don’t wear a primer or a cream shadow or some type of base before they apply a powdered eyeshadow,” says Maalouf. Primer has many purposes. It can moisturize dry lids, it helps shadow stay on longer, and it acts like a magnet to stop loose shadow from falling on your cheeks. If you don’t want to purchase a separate product to put in your makeup kit, you can use Rosebud Lip Salve or any eye cream as a pseudo-primer.
Mistake #2: Applying concealer to your lids before shadow.
While applying a primer is an important step, you can skip the color-correcting and concealing step on your lids if you’re going to apply shadow. “Sometimes concealer is too cakey. Then, it changes the color of the eyeshadow and it doesn’t look too good,” say Maalouf.
Mistake #3: Applying your eye makeup before foundation.
Both of our experts agree that foundation should be first. “I start with skin because it takes the longest, and I think it’s most important,” says Maalouf. “Instead of using 19 eyeshadows, make your skin look perfect and use one eyeshadow.”
Mistake #4: Buying nude shades that “match” your skin tone.
It makes sense, right? Buy a few nude shades, and it will coordinate with everything. But you’re better off reaching for something metallic to really make your eyes stand out. “Sometimes people get afraid of color, but sometimes a color can be less noticeable than a beige or brown,” says Maalouf. “You’re instinctually going for your version of neutral, but a metallic bronze or rose gold can be really minimal.” After all if the shadow is just going to blend in, what’s the point?
Mistake #5: Only using a makeup brush to apply eyeshadow.
Your fingers are great tools. Brushes aren’t always required to get a good eye look. Apply the shadow to your hand first. Then, use your middle finger to pick up product and swipe it across your lids. For a smoky eye effect, apply liner to your lash line and waterline. Then, smudge with your index finger.
Mistake #6: Thinking you need four shadows for a proper shadow look.
Maalouf believes wholeheartedly in a minimal approach to eyeshadow. So, while those four-step tutorials on Pinterest are gorgeous, you can get away with using just one shadow shade. “You can take a really fluffy eyeshadow brush and a matte shadow a couple shades darker than your natural skin. Then, do a haze around your whole eye,” he says. “When you take it to night you can add an eyeliner to it.” That’s it. Bye, bye eyeshadow palette.
Related: 7 Eyeliner Mistakes You Need to Stop Making
Mistake #7: Putting too much product on your brush.
Ebbin says the number-one cause of eyeshadow fallout (where color ends up all over your cheeks instead of just on lids) is too much product on the brush. This is especially true of glitter-y shadows. “Wet your brush, take a little glitter, and gently press it into the areas you want,” says Ebbin. When you’re using regular loose shadow, give the brush a few taps to shake off the excess product. And if you’re looking to get a super pigmented look, start with a little and build. “The best part about makeup is that when you start with a little you can always add more,” says Maalouf.
Mistake #8: Using black eyeshadow to create a smoky eye.
A smoky eye can come in many different colors from a subtle brown, dark grey, or even plums and navy shades. Yes, applying a super black shadow is one way to do it. But you can get a more natural effect just using eyeliner. Ebbin recommends using a soft pencil across the lash line and then smudging with a brush.
Mistake #9: Skipping shadow underneath your eyes (because you don’t want to look like a raccoon).
It can be intimidating, putting shadow on the small lid underneath the eyes. Ebbin recommends using a small tapered brow brush to get in that delicate area. Then, take the color you’re using back up to the crease in a sideways V-shape.
Mistake #10: Only using eyeshadow products on your eyes.
There are many different things in your makeup kit that you can use as eyeshadow. “Use wet blush and create a sunset eyeshadow effect,” says Ebbin. “You can use your bronzer as an eyeshadow to create a suntan look—but too taupe looks sickly, choose more a golden pigment.”
